Showing posts with label magazines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label magazines. Show all posts

Sunday, September 28, 2008

The "Historical" All-Black Vogue Italia: What’s Next?

Alrighty now, let’s get right to it. The all-Black Italian Vogue was nothing short of a phenomenon. If you recall, I certainly had my doubts about the concept initially. And as far as the motivation and philosophy behind it goes; I still kinda do. Again, Black women are not novelties. Although I sorta felt like one when I visited Italy back in 2000 and every third man I passed in the street was calling me "bella" and seemingly undressing me even though I wore jeans and loose tees most of the trip. However, even I can’t deny the significance this issue has made (and continues to make) on the fashion and publishing worlds.

There was a bunch of hype and buzz about the issue from the moment it first hit the world wide web. Then an even greater reaction when it finally got here. (Remember how EVERYONE was losing their minds looking for it?) And now that it has come and gone, I think we’re seeing a significant domino situation. We Americans are great at following… Are we really surprised that Italy beat American Vogue to this? Nah. Think back to all the folks like Josephine Baker who went across the pond in order for their careers to flourish because the U.S. didn’t embrace them. For the record, Europeans most definitely have their share of racial hang-ups. The colorism that exist even between Northern Italians and Southern Italians is real. (Folks in the north tend to be lighter than those in the south.) But back to my point - I wasn’t at all surprised that Italy did something like this before American Vogue. Anna did try to save face with that Is Fashion Racist? feature in the July issue but it was a day late and a dollar short.

The issue itself actually wasn’t all-Black at all which I found umm, interesting. But what I find even more interesting is that it sold more issues than ANYONE expected. As I mentioned here on PPT before, the "J" months are typically slow times in publishing. In January, the perception is everyone is all spent out from the holidays and in June and July, folks are traveling/on vacay. So, advertisers don’t spend a lot of money to be in these issues. The fact that this was a July issue and is reported as being the best-selling issue for Italian Vogue - ever - is amazing. Not to mention, it kills any and all myths about Black faces not being able to sell on mainstream covers. Not only can they sell, but they can sell-out! No longer can a Conde Nast, Hearst or Hachette editor sit in an edit planning meeting and utter the words that people of color "don’t sell". Folks, that is MAJOR!

Below are the biggest and most noticeable events that have taken place since the now infamous all-Black Vogue Italia hit newsstands:

- Dominican model Arlenis Sosa landed the coveted gig as the new face of Lancome. It’s about time the industry recognized that Latinas can be dark brown too.
- Sophie Theallet used all Black models for her Spring 2009 show in NYC earlier this month.
- Chanel Iman scored the cover of the current issue of Time Style & Design.
- People mag put the Obama family on a cover in July. Original photography too, not pick-up. Apples and oranges? I don’t think so. Remember, "trends" in fashion are usually a reflection of what's going on in society. I hope this is more than a trend though.
- More and more brown faces are showing up in features for mainstream mags.
- People of color are increasingly hired in top positions (that they deserve and earned!) at major publications, design houses, model/casting agencies and advertising agencies. Okay so this last one is simply wishful thinking on my part. Hey, a girl can dream can’t she?

Do you think I forgot something? Are you feeling my sentiments about this issue or do you think I’m all wrong? Leave me a comment and let me know.

By the way, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the woman who, in my opinion, started all of this: BETHANN HARDISON. I still don’t agree with all of Bethann’s opinions on this matter, but I’m glad she had the courage to start the conversation. Kudos!

P.S. - I’m finally going to see In the Heights this evening. I’m so excited!

Saturday, August 9, 2008

The Making of a Dream Team: HONEY Magazine


An assignment at work this week led me to do some research on the Olympics. Now I’m not really into sports but I was surprisingly happy to learn such cool info about the Games. How gangsta were track and field stars Tommie Smith and John Carlos (above)? And Jesse Owens showing Hitler what was really good - crazy, right? Then the Dream Team creating the blueprint of a perfect basketball team because they realized that each of them were all-stars. There are so many important parallels between succeeding in sports and in life: teamwork, tenacity and God-given talent. (I believe the Creator gives each of us a gift.) All of these athletes faced tremendous adversity in their careers. But they persevered. I am convinced that this is how champions are built.

Well, I have my own dream team when it comes to magazines. Kierna Mayo and Joicelyn Dingle created what for me was the perfect publication: Honey. It had a lot to do with timing I guess. When the mag launched, I was in my early 20s; really just starting to find myself as a woman. I did have YSB (we desperately need a version of this for teens today), Seventeen (I rarely saw girls that looked like me in it though) and even 3-2-1 Contact (my dad was a science buff) but none of them touched Honey. And I don’t think I was mature enough to appreciate Essence yet. But Honey, it gave me and my girls a voice. And it spoke loud and clear with perfect diction. It told the world what we didn’t have a platform to: that we enjoyed going to art museums and hip-hop concerts, we were interested in traveling to Barcelona and Howard’s Homecoming (the boys!), we found it necessary to keep our hair tight and gear fly but still made time for church. Basically we had layers. Honey got that.

R.I.P: Lisa "Left Eye" Lopez graced the cover of Honey's official debut issue

Well, the "perfect" moment in time was swept away by greed, legal ish and a bunch of other stuff I don’t know enough about to comment on. Others attempted to keep it up but it wasn’t the same (no disrespect). What was once thick, sticky and sweet felt watered down, bland and just eh. No matter how hard ya try, some things just can’t be duplicated.

Every now and again I pull out my very first issue and smile. (Actually, Lauryn was on the cover of the prototype issue but I never got that one…) What a dream team it was! While Kierna and Joicelyn oversaw all the editorial content of the mag, Sonya Magett and Julia Chance held down the fashion and beauty pages. (Sonya tolerated my stalking - I was trying so hard to be her assistant.)

Just take a look at some of the other talented folks who contributed to this first issue:

Aliya S. King - recently penned what is sure to be a bestseller: Faith Evans tell-all biography

Bonsu Thompson - EIC of XXL Presents Hip Hop Soul

Datwon Thomas - EIC of XXL and Editorial Director of King

dream hampton - all around dope writer, ‘nuff said

asha bandele - author of The Prisoner’s Wife, poet and teacher (I worked with asha briefly so I can personally vouch for her being a natural teacher.)

Ayana Byrd - Articles Editor at Glamour and co-editor of Naked

Margeaux Watson - writer for Entertainment Weekly and amazing scribe (Did you read her Usher cover story?)

Miles Marshall Lewis - writer, author, blogger

Elon D. Johnson - magazine, television and book writer (She contributed to Ayana’s Naked.)

Raquel Cepeda - writer turned filmmaker - Bling: A Planet Rock is a dope piece of work

To this day, whenever I see Kierna and Joicelyn, they inspire me. These two young women made history and opened doors I didn’t even realize were closed. And I know that I’m not alone in feeling this way. I don’t have a gold medal to give them, but they will always be a dream team to me.