The "Historical" All-Black Vogue Italia: What’s Next?

Alrighty now, let’s get right to it. The all-Black Italian Vogue was nothing short of a phenomenon. If you recall, I certainly had my doubts about the concept initially. And as far as the motivation and philosophy behind it goes; I still kinda do. Again, Black women are not novelties. Although I sorta felt like one when I visited Italy back in 2000 and every third man I passed in the street was calling me "bella" and seemingly undressing me even though I wore jeans and loose tees most of the trip. However, even I can’t deny the significance this issue has made (and continues to make) on the fashion and publishing worlds.

There was a bunch of hype and buzz about the issue from the moment it first hit the world wide web. Then an even greater reaction when it finally got here. (Remember how EVERYONE was losing their minds looking for it?) And now that it has come and gone, I think we’re seeing a significant domino situation. We Americans are great at following… Are we really surprised that Italy beat American Vogue to this? Nah. Think back to all the folks like Josephine Baker who went across the pond in order for their careers to flourish because the U.S. didn’t embrace them. For the record, Europeans most definitely have their share of racial hang-ups. The colorism that exist even between Northern Italians and Southern Italians is real. (Folks in the north tend to be lighter than those in the south.) But back to my point - I wasn’t at all surprised that Italy did something like this before American Vogue. Anna did try to save face with that Is Fashion Racist? feature in the July issue but it was a day late and a dollar short.

The issue itself actually wasn’t all-Black at all which I found umm, interesting. But what I find even more interesting is that it sold more issues than ANYONE expected. As I mentioned here on PPT before, the "J" months are typically slow times in publishing. In January, the perception is everyone is all spent out from the holidays and in June and July, folks are traveling/on vacay. So, advertisers don’t spend a lot of money to be in these issues. The fact that this was a July issue and is reported as being the best-selling issue for Italian Vogue - ever - is amazing. Not to mention, it kills any and all myths about Black faces not being able to sell on mainstream covers. Not only can they sell, but they can sell-out! No longer can a Conde Nast, Hearst or Hachette editor sit in an edit planning meeting and utter the words that people of color "don’t sell". Folks, that is MAJOR!

Below are the biggest and most noticeable events that have taken place since the now infamous all-Black Vogue Italia hit newsstands:

- Dominican model Arlenis Sosa landed the coveted gig as the new face of Lancome. It’s about time the industry recognized that Latinas can be dark brown too.
- Sophie Theallet used all Black models for her Spring 2009 show in NYC earlier this month.
- Chanel Iman scored the cover of the current issue of Time Style & Design.
- People mag put the Obama family on a cover in July. Original photography too, not pick-up. Apples and oranges? I don’t think so. Remember, "trends" in fashion are usually a reflection of what's going on in society. I hope this is more than a trend though.
- More and more brown faces are showing up in features for mainstream mags.
- People of color are increasingly hired in top positions (that they deserve and earned!) at major publications, design houses, model/casting agencies and advertising agencies. Okay so this last one is simply wishful thinking on my part. Hey, a girl can dream can’t she?

Do you think I forgot something? Are you feeling my sentiments about this issue or do you think I’m all wrong? Leave me a comment and let me know.

By the way, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the woman who, in my opinion, started all of this: BETHANN HARDISON. I still don’t agree with all of Bethann’s opinions on this matter, but I’m glad she had the courage to start the conversation. Kudos!

P.S. - I’m finally going to see In the Heights this evening. I’m so excited!

Preaching To The Choir

Liya, Iman, Bethann and Naomi at the first event in Sept. '07

It can never be said that Bethann Hardison doesn't try. On Wednesday evening, the mother of Kadeem "Dwayne Wayne" Hardison hosted yet another symposium on the lack of Black models on the runway. Held at NYC's swanky Bowery Hotel, Hardison succeeded in getting folks fired up (for the third time) over the industry's lily white fashion shows.

The audience was filled with a unique (Damon Dash was in the house with rapper Jim Jones) mix of fashion's movers and shakers -- designers, model agency owners, casting agents, stylists, journalists and models. The latter even had the opportunity to voice their opinions on the topic. Two gorgeous young women gave their first-hand accounts of what an aspiring model of color is facing in 2008. Get this -- one recounted for the room how she was strongly advised to get a nose job when first entering the game! Andre Leon Talley was there in spirit (his body was in Chicago assisting with Obama's campaign) as Hardison read an uplifting message from the longtime Vogue editor about diversity. Wonder when we'll see more diversity within the pages of Vogue. The evening proved to be quite colorful but led to a predictable round of the blame game. The designers blame the stylists. The stylists blame the casting directors. The casting folks blame... you get the point.

However, optimism filled the air when the president of Elite Models pledged to donate $1,000 towards Hardison's next event. That was a nice gesture. I think that because Hardison (a former model and agent herself) was courageous enough to begin this conversation, some influential people at the very least are starting to think about why there are so few models of color in the forefront of mainstream fashion. But I must confess that I still don't feel "asking" the industry to increase the number of Black models on the runway is the move in 2008. At least a few folks in attendance appeared to agree with me. I'm also not looking to return to this "golden era" when Black models were all the rage. Pet rocks were all the rage at one point in time as well. We are not novelties.

My evening ended on a high note when I asked the stunning Jessica White to pose for a PPT pic and she happily obliged. Unlike the majority of our current models of color she is American born. The Victoria's Secret model was also quite gracious after I congratulated her on the prestigious Maybelline contract she recently scored.



I'll be attending shows for NY Fashion Week very soon and I'll certainly keep an eye out for Jessica and other models of color on the runways. Perhaps some of this preaching has indeed fallen on the ears of someone beyond the choir.